With the transmission properly supported, work it back and away from the engine until it is completely clear, and then lower it. There is one that is especially difficult on the starter, which is easier to access from the top. If you go this route, ensure that no hoses or wires are being pulled on. Since there wasn’t room to back the bolt out, we lowered the passenger side of the engine until the bolt cleared. One of the upper bellhousing bolts sits very close to the frame at the firewall. We opted to support the engine and transmission we disconnected the rear transmission mount and then removed the motor mounts (we had to replace them anyway). Here, some users have different methods to continue with the transmission removal. A crossbar sits underneath the subframe, just under where the motor mounts sit. Disconnect the wiring on the driver’s side and on top of the transmission. Remove the clutch slave cylinder, mounted on the driver’s side of the transmission housing. With all driveshaft bolts removed, then remove the driveshaft. Remove the 8mm allen bolts to remove the driveshaft. The airbox, shifter, center console, and exhaust need to come off first. Before going in underneath the car, a few items need to be taken care of in preparation. If you use stands, get the car as high as you can and ensure that the stands are securely placed in proper and safe locations. Scroll down and learn some of the essentials in swapping a clutch on the Honda S2000.Ī lift isn’t a necessity, but it will make the job a whole lot easier. Given that the car will likely see some mild power upgrades and track time in the future, we opted for some more capable hardware, McLeod’s Street Tuner clutch. As put together plans to bring the car back up to snuff, a new clutch was added to the list. Our project Honda S2000 clocks in with 366,000 miles on the odometer, with only two clutch changes in its whole life.
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